Nahttypen (types of seams) are the first significant building blocks of any sewn piece. “Every piece of clothing is a complex combination of different seams, each chosen for its function, strength and beauty.” From the thick, strong seams on your jeans to the delicate, dainty ones on your silk blouse, you can find a variety of styles in every piece. Understanding different types is no longer a technical skill. It is a performance, progress, and perfected skill of a novice following a pattern set by the artisan. This guide is devoted to the world of novel seams as a complex system of classification and outlining every detail and tip use.”
The Foundation: What is a Seam?
We start our Nahttypen review with an explanation of a seam. A seam is an area of a piece of fabric and is understood to be where two or more pieces of fabric are stitched together. To get a complete understanding of a seam, even this understanding would need to be explained further. Here are some of the ramifications of a seam to help understand the type of seam being discussed.
- Durability. Is the seam going to withstand the strain, and will the stress affect its wear and tear on the project?
- Comfort. Will it be irritating to the wearer (s) on an ongoing basis?
- Visibility. Is the seam going to be an eyesore, or will it be a decorative, visible part of the design?
- Purpose. Does the seam need to be of a functional stretch? Is the purpose of the seam to remove the possibility of the fabric fraying? Is the purpose of the seam to reshape something, or even to hold some fabric together?
Every seam can be classified into only two major, overarching categories.
Design and construction are two intertwined concepts for every fabric piece. Design is the finishing touch added at the edge where fabric gets closed, and construction is the layering of fabric and stitching.
Category 1: Basic and Common Seam Types (Konstruktionsnahttypen)
The following are the naht types: most basic, most common, and the building blocks of most sewing projects.
1. Straight seam method (grundnaht or franzosische naht imitiert).
This is the most basic and standard nahttyp. To achieve this, place two fabric pieces right sides together. Then you are going to sew them, and afterwards press the seam open. It is this simple. However, this method absolutely needs an edging with a different finish so the fabric will not fray.
Superior for all kinds of woven materials, especially those with seams that need to be closed or fabrics that require finishing. This technique is the standard seam that is used for skirts, shirts, and trousers.
2. The French Seam (Französische Naht)
As for the following type, which is also the second type of seam, the term used is French seam under the French words terminology, naht.
The French seam is a standard of sophistication and style. All is completed, since a single piece is all that is seen, and the fabric is completely concealed; thus, the use of the term self-finished seam is appropriate. This is achieved by taking the fabric pieces, putting their wrong sides together, sewing a narrow seam, and cutting along the seam to create a rough seam allowance, which you fold to the right side to hide all the raw edges. After folding to the right and sewing a second seam, all the contents are secured in a polished, orderly tunnel.
Ideal for when light materials like organza and chiffon are used, as it will leave an unpleasant sight to the eye if raw edges are present.
It works best with light silks and linens when finishing unlined pieces, and style is necessary.
3. The Flat-Felled Seam (Doppelnaht or Kappnaht)
There are many different types of seams used on various fabrics. The Flat-Felled Seam is one of the most used seams, for its effortless construction and clean finish. It can be recognized on the right side of the fabric, where it displays two rows of identical stitches; it is one of the strongest seams. It is one of the most popular seams seen on denim jeans, workwear, men’s shirts, and many others. This seam construction has one short seam allowance; a fold is brought over to enclose the raw edge, which is then stitched down flat to the hang of the fabric.
Best For: This seam is best for when a seam is expected to get abused a lot. This is the case with activewear, bags, children’s clothing, denim, thick cotton and other strong fabrics.
4. The Hong Kong Seam (Hongkong-Naht)
This seam is the most prestigious in tailoring and haute couture. It is a technique usually applied as a finishing touch to a plain seam. The inner edge of the seam allowance is encased in bias, folded and then stitched down. It is a finish that matches the garment’s exterior. It has no visible stitching, but it is a very durable, flexible seam that is usually in a cheery colour, adding something good to the garment.
Best for: It is most suitable for unlined jackets and coats, but can also be used for other garments. It is essential to use this for other clothes where you want a nice finish on the inside, especially when using medium- and heavyweight fabrics such as wool and tweed.
Category 2: Seams for Stretch Fabrics
When sewing knits, such as jersey and interlock, regular seams are particularly prone to breaking under pressure. Some special seam types are needed to accommodate the stretch.
5. The Zigzag Seam
Of all the stretch seams, this is the easiest to sew on a regular sewing machine. All that has to be done is adjust the sewing machine to a back-and-forth zigzag stitch setting. This motion allows the seam to expand and contract like the knitted material. For knits, a narrow zigzag is often preferable over a straight stitch.
Best for: Basic knit construction + casualwear leg and sleeve hems.
6. The Overlock Seam (Overlock-Naht)
This type of seam is custom-made by an overlock or serger machine. The overlock is a professional, durable, and flexible seam type. This seam is a staple in garments such as T-shirts and leggings, and is especially crucial in activewear.
Best for: Essentially all projects containing knit fabric.
7. The Flatlock Seam
This type of seam joins two pieces of fabric and is designed so that the seam allowances are on one side, creating a flat surface on the other. This helps minimize potential skin irritation and chafing, especially during wear of certain activewear. For example, flatlock seams can be made in a ladder or railroad track pattern, which is visually appealing.
Best for: The underarm seams of performance shirts, athletic wear, as well as the inseams of leggings.
Category 3: Decorative and Specialized Seams
Some seam types are explicitly chosen for their aesthetics or for a special, often one-off, purpose.
8. Welt Seam
If you want to join two pieces of fabric together with a seam, a welt seam is an option! With a welt seam, you join the two pieces together, trim one of the seam allowances, and then topstitch to the other seam. Make sure to leave one seam closed while topstitching to encase all the fabric’s raw edges. A welt seam is clean, polished, and looks really professional. It is not quite as detailed as a flat-felled seam, but it is also very polished.
Best for jackets and tailor-made pants, as well as upholstery.
9. The Lapped Seam
A lapped seam is a seam in which one piece of fabric is laid on top of another. The piece of cloth on top has the top raw edge folded under. This is not a common seam, but it can prove helpful in attaching a yoke to a garment or, at other times, for a design with overlapping fabric pieces.
Best for: Applying yokes, patchwork, and other decorative pieces.
Choosing the Right Nahttyp (seam type)
Choosing the type of seam to use is not a one-size-fits-all; it is a combination of several variables. The following are a few to help guide the right choice.
Is the fabric knitted or woven? How about the weight now? Is it lightweight or is it heavy? Is it easy to fray?
- Woven seaming: the plain, French, flat fell, Hong Kong
- Knit seaming: zigzag, overlock, flatlock
- Sheer fabric: Use the French seam
- Heavyweight denim: flat fell or welt seam
What is it that you will be making? Will it need to stretch? Is it supposed to have an attractive inside? Is this something that will be used frequently?
- For work, a tough fabric will be appropriate. Flat-felled seams will be a wise choice.
- For the evening, a tough fabric will also be an appropriate choice. Works well.
- For athletic: fabric that’s soft and stretchy. Overlock and flatlock seams are good choices for this.
What equipment do you have, and what are your skills?
- A basic sewing machine lets you do a simple seam and a zigzag seam.
- For more delicate and complicated pieces, use a French seam.
- If you have an overlocker, stretchy fabric can keep a professional-looking finish.
Conclusion
To conclude: Indeed, skills need to be mastered, and you can also be proud of what you’ve created in Naltpu.
Although fabric stitching is considered sewing, there is more to sewing than merely stitching a piece of clothing. It is the construction of a three-dimensional garment, a performance of architecture, and ultimately a piece of art. Everyone devotes time to the item. Every detail is intentional and serves a purpose. Every item has a purpose, and so do the stitches, every piece of fabric, and the construction as a whole. Every piece is more than a decorative fabric. Every piece is a functional, durable, comfortable, and wearable garment. Next time you are about to create an article of clothing, do more than follow the instructions in the guide. Analyze. Reflect on the fabric you are working with. Make sure it serves its proper function and that the appropriate seam is used.
You are far more than a seamster. You are an artist, and you have more accomplished crafts than fabric alone.
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